Has anybody noticed how in the past few months the best swells have been hitting on Sundays? When a few of us are in church praying for world peace and not trying to think about the session we’re missing? And it looks like the next good swell is again going to be arriving on Sunday. Whom the Good Lord would torture, He tortures exceedingly subtly.
How to be happy surfing with a crowd.
Be a local, be famous, have skills to blow everyone else out of the water.
But if you are a mere visiting mortal, here are some tips:
1. Don’t paddle out.
2. If you are going to paddle out, then keep in mind that surfing is mostly a waiting game. You wait for swell. You wait for planes, trains, and automobiles. You wait for tides. You wait for winds. You wait for sets. You wait and wait and wait and only rarely do you actually get to ride a wave, and this is even you’re surfing solo or with a few friends. Divide the number of hours you’ve spent waiting by the number of waves, and you get a 99.99 percent waiting and .01 percent riding. So if you surf for two hours with a crowd and only get one wave, then you are actually ahead of that statistic. So you should be happy.
3. Be happy for others who get the waves, compliment them on their rides, get those around you to hold hands and sing a song. Maybe pray for world peace.
4. Seriously, though, change the old attitude switch. It’s pretty simple. To enjoy what you have instead of bitching about what you don’t have improves circulation, digestion, and mental health.