I’ve been working hard writing and writing and writing and am too burned out on words for the post I was thinking about.
So here is a photo of my buddy and barrel hound Rob Nichols at a break that would be called Periscopes. This was several years before word leaked out, when to get to Lakey village you still had to correctly pronounce it as Lah-kai. The correct pronunciation has a nicer melody to it, doesn’t it? More appropriate for a paradise surf destination, except it’s now a surf-mill, with snakes in the garden, the apple well and truly eaten.
Anyway, this for sure would have been one of the first ever barrels ridden there. Rob made it out. I was snapping shots and not surfing—I could barely ride in the dinghy to the beach—because a wipeout at the peak shoved my board deep, which then rocketed rail up to my side. A little different twist of chance, and the fin would have sliced my guts open, with intestines wrapped around the coral heads, a slightly more dire situation than a mere tangled leash.
(We cruised there on the Hati Murnih, not overland. I’ve posted this photo below before, the boat at anchor in the reef pass there between Nungas and Periscopes. We had no “x marks the spot” maps–just taking a punt along the coast–and we actually didn’t see Periscopes at first. The wind was on it. My other friend Steve kept looking at its back, said “that’s a right” and had the dinghy drop him off, even though it looked like crap. We knew it was a good wave when we heard him hooting like crazy after his first ride. One thing you learn when you’re looking for surf is that surf breaks can be hard to see from behind)