(Because a picture is worth a thousand words. Photo copyright Dennis McGrath, used with permission. Bert Wilson and friend off to check the beach)
fertility forest full of …….
where is it ….?
Ah man, I surfed Bali and Lombok that year and it changed my life. I was young then.I remember pods of Whales at inside Kuta, Blue white skies and rolling pitching waves. I ate at Poppies, whole fish and rice, with flavours and tastes so exotic it makes me cry now to think about it. I drank Bintang and swore I would never grow old. Never leave. I remember the cliff walk to Ulu, and the smiles of locals and stray surfers alike. I remember the Temple on the cliff, the monkeys, and the call of wild gulls.
I remember the Music and the Dance.
I remember like yesterday the sweet morning smell of the rice paddies, the fresh washed lanes and small offerings on every doorstep. That unforgettable taste of your first clove cigarette.
And the waves, oh my, it was truly Heaven on Earth.
The waves are still there, but I fear, the Premise has changed.
surfing indo since 1956 ?????? why do media always print non facts ? if so you wernt even realy doing it , No Padang ,gland etc.. just the claim is lame and why?
Well, okay, that’s just writer’s creative license. I was born Bali in ’56, and really didn’t start body-surfing Kuta until I was about seven or so, in the little shore breaks in front of Dr. Reed’s house, where the Hard Rock cafe is now. Check out this post I wrote.
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Available in Bali at Ganesha Bookshops
And other Indonesia locations at Periplus Bookstores
Rest of the world: paperback and digital editions
A great read for an Indo surf trip...or even if you're not a surfer