My son Keio, some fifteen years ago, at Kuta beach:
When my kids were grommets, I’d take them to the beach every other week or so, back when the parking was easy and there was no surf school frolicking flotsam crowding the water. (The kids in the photo are all friends, having fun together at their own little peak). Keio took to the surf naturally, dropped out in middle school to concentrate on video games, then in high school started surfing again on his own with friends. This is the thing about growing up in Bali, surfing is just something you do because the surf is there, part of your natural environment if you want to take advantage of it or not, even if it is getting more and more crowded these days (which is why I think today’s local kids often surf like the visitors in the lineups just aren’t there, not being jerks about it, but how else are they going to catch a wave where they live?).
Now Keio’s off on a semester abroad program to Fiji and thanks to the new public access to Cloudbreak, scored this last month.