Your blog correspondent would be remiss if he didn’t mention this last week’s run of swell. Perhaps I am wrong, but I can’t remember ever having a solid, long period South Indian Ocean ground swell in January. I certainly can’t remember having two back-to-back swells, the second being a large, short period cyclone swell. Everybody had a chance to sample the different characteristics. I think this is a historical first. More next week.
For now, it’s my pleasure to introduce another writer. I’ve mentioned before that writing surf scenes is hard to pull off without sounding like mechanical porn or like mystical tip-toeing through the aquatic daisies, but Diego has penned a great story that has surrealist shades of Borges: The Phamplet. Check it out!