Well, I know how to get a lot of traffic to this blog, and that’s to post advance warning of big swells, like I did on New Years a few weeks ago, alerting everyone of the big ground swell due to hit on 6th-8th January:
(note: This is NOT a new swell coming, this is OVER, better make that clear, knowing how rumors start)
But it’s not in my best selfish interest to be alerting the masses, although the word gets out soon enough. The swell was indeed big and excellent. East side spots got packed. I used to refer to swells being of “crowd control size” but that seems to be leaking its logic. Plenty of surfers around willing to have a go at the large stuff. On one of those big days, your blog correspondent was out at a current-y reef when a surf-school boat pulled up and out jumped five learners on foamies. This was during a lull, and the current pulled them right up to the impact zone. I should have said something to the guide but you learn not to interfere with a local making his living…and sure enough, a clean-up set came through. This one girl freaked. She survived, but it could have had a different outcome.
Here’s the historical wind chart of the Indian Ocean low that produced this ground swell. The chart’s dated 3 Jan, but you could see the low several days before this.
This was followed by a large wind swell from cyclone Narelle (the little blob between Northwestern Australia and Indonesia)
Used to be in the early days that nobody knew about cyclone swells. Kuta side would be flat, and Sanur would be pumping, and the surfers over in Kuta wouldn't have a clue. Before technology turned everything into a global village, hourly surf conditions everywhere texted and Instagramed.