The other afternoon your blog correspondent put down Haruki Murakami’s KAFKA BY THE SEASHORE, a masterful novel of talking cats and UFOs and other surreal things. I was distracted by a strange scraping in the attic, a sound that sounded familiar but which I couldn’t immediately place.
Flashlight in hand, I climbed the narrow stairs into the hot and dusty attic. The scrape, scrape continued. A coconut scent pierced the must of dust bunnies and mouse droppings. Why, it smelled like ssurf wax. Then I realized what the noise was — the sound of a surfer waxing his surfboard. As I spelunked deeper into the accumulated junk, the noise ceased. My flashlight fell upon a thin curve of green. Removing cardboard cartons of cobwebby clothes, I found this laid across the roof beams:
How had this odd surfboard gotten into the attic? I had no recollection of it whatsoever. No memory of a friend dropping it off. Green is a dangerous choice of color for surfing Indonesia waters, as it is a color sacred to Nyi Roro Kidul, Goddess of the South Seas.
Glassed fins, shaped by Kasufuza Naka under the “Left” logo, signed on the stringer, with only one dimension given, that of a length of 7’0″. Perhaps it came from another world of space-time where other dimensions are meaningless in this world? A thickness, say, of hyper(cos z ^ 2 * delta pi).
The fixed fins indicate a ripe old age, but its provenance remains a mystery. Wither and whence didst it travel in Indonesia? Did it traverse the light fantastic in a Padang barrel? Did it warp-drive the treacherous Sanur end section Did a talking cat accompany it?
When I hefted in under my arm, I was immediately seized by an urge to ride like the days of yore, when a 6’8″ was my gun of choice, but inching down the steps, I threw out my back again. Alas, I shall leave the Left alone.
UPDATE A previous post displayed some of Kim Bradley’s early Bali maestro shapes.
Robert Wilson sends in this photo of Lee Wilson’s first board, a Bradley Bali Design, re-shaped out of longer board: