A friend sent me this link about some old-time surfers in Bali:
I grabbed a screen shot (at bottom) from the video of Sanur going off in the background. Those are single fins, the surfers aren’t in any hurry to paddle out because there are no surfers around (although in the video I think I see one surfer dropping in on a beauty. In those days, Sanur was on its northern end a black sand beach (same as Padanggalak). The Hotel Bali Beach, now the Grand Inna Bali Beach, had to build a breakwater and bring in truckloads of coral sand to keep the black sand from drifting down their way. Note the outriggers with sails, no outboards. These were real fishermen going out to catch fish for their livelihood.
Now Sanur is fast-boat mayhem to Lembongan, dozen of multi-engined boats leaving and arriving every morning and afternoon. They race out the narrow channel at the end of the wave, propagating a boat wake all the way through the lineup. The locals say the boat wakes ruin about 70 percent of the waves — and Sanur is already really fickle to begin with.