Emu, Desert Point, 1987

We were on the Hati Murnih boat: Emu and Fredo and me. Emu was a big, craggy South Australian and Fredo a Margaret River area lifeguard and I was me, a bit in over my head on this solid 6 – 8 ft swell, not having the technical backhand skills on waves that this morning and tide were racing too fast. Fredo kept his lifeguard eye on me. Emu’s lady (if I remember correctly, Gabriella) walked up the beach from the anchorage and took the photos. Anyway, this was 1987 — or 86 or 88, time blurs, but Desert Point was still a truly secret spot known to only a very few crew with boats, and we had the break to ourselves for the whole swell. The closest surfer was across the deep ocean channel at Lembongan. Now it’s one of Indonesia’s most crowded surf spots.

emu desert point

emu 2 desert point

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