A historical photograph of Nusa Dua surf

Well, okay, it’s not exactly what you think it is, but I’m tickled pink, with some reef rash thrown in.

Your blog correspondent has been surfing Nusa Dua for some forty years, although in the last decade my attendance declined in proportion to the traffic jams and time it took to drive there. Why spend three hours sucking leaded gas fumes in stop-and-go, and sometimes just plain stopped, traffic to surf three waves (ND being a notoriously hard work, low wave count spot)? But now there is the toll road, and my back and various bones are doing okay, I’ve been sneaking down south.

As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve never been much of an Ulu side guy (except for Airport (Pertamina) Lefts and Middles before the crowds) — and after learning to ride a surfboard at Kuta beachbreaks my first reef waves were first, Mushroom Rock when the Nusa Dua warungs were at that beach before the hotel developments, and then Nusa Dua proper. There’s a blog post about the history of Nusa Dua surfing as filtered through my warped memories. In the early 80s, Nusa Dua got pretty crowded for the time, I think mainly because the government bulldozed a limestone road out there as the first stage of development, allowing easy access in the off-season months. The other off-season spots were hard to get to (ie Green Balls, Payung) or damn near impossible (ie Serangan), so Nusa was the go to place.

At any rate, all those years surfing the joint, and not one photograph of yours truly. So when a friend alerted me that our fellow blog friend Nusa Surf Wear, who does a regular video surf report around the Bukit, had a video of me on a set wave on a good day from the other week, I said, “ah, I’m not really into self-glorification” — well, okay, I dropped everything and got on the computer and lo and behold, it was me on a solid wave. So I saved the Nusa screen grab and here it is. A historical photograph (to me at any rate; plenty of locals and visitors can surf circles around me out there). This is the end of the ride from outside and that corner came down on me and I had to bail. As I sometimes do, I counted off the seconds while tumbling around the reef bottom and popped up at nine seconds (see this post on the twelve-second rule of wave hold downs)

me at nusa dua

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8 Responses to A historical photograph of Nusa Dua surf

  1. Anonymous says:

    Whoa ! … Cool shot Dick , on ya mate

  2. diegonusamag says:

    Hey Richard, we are glad we were able to fill this historical gap in Bali’s surfing history. 🙂 Really. We are very happy for this. And if you want to check and download the actual video from Nusa’s Surf Video Report, you can go to our YouTube channel were we keep previous reports. Check video for the 3rd of April, here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjmHs1NmCXI
    Cheers,
    diego
    nusa

  3. Anonymous says:

    Hi there, I just came back from Bali last month. I arrived there the day after Nyepi. Anyway as you seem to be an expert on many things Bali, I was wondering if you could fill me in on something that has me puzzled. I surfed Nusa Dua regularly in the 80s and 90s and it attracted heaps of surfers. I checked Nusa Dua two days in a row during my stay. It was 6 – 8 foot and pretty good, but there was only one surfer and maybe 3 sups out along the whole reef on both days I was there. Just wondering if you can explain why it was so uncrowded?
    Cheers’
    Mick.

    • Well, I should have been out there!

      What time where you there? A lot of the regulars will go early (based on the tides). I reckon Nusa Dua is not a favorite for traveling surfers. They prefer Serangan and other easier spots (easier for access and paddle and current and positioning, even when big). But good big Nusa on the right conditions, there are a whole bunch of regulars who will show up.

    • ray mcevoy says:

      hi Mick,i was probably the other guy surfing ..I remember the 3 sup riders and just me and a mate..im heading off to Bali tomorrow and I hope to get more of the same ..small world

  4. Anonymous says:

    Thanks for the reply. I got there about 8 and if I remember right, high tide was about 11. Yer I think your right – the break is definitely not that easy. Shifty peaks, strong current etc like you said. It was still a bit of a surprise though.

  5. kerry woods says:

    Wow incredible pictures. You get the exact same moment. I’ve never been to Nusa Dua. and I am not so fond of surfing. But look at the photo, my adrenaline was challenged. Maybe so terrible surf like that. But for people who are experts, it will give satisfaction.

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