Well, okay, it’s not exactly what you think it is, but I’m tickled pink, with some reef rash thrown in.
Your blog correspondent has been surfing Nusa Dua for some forty years, although in the last decade my attendance declined in proportion to the traffic jams and time it took to drive there. Why spend three hours sucking leaded gas fumes in stop-and-go, and sometimes just plain stopped, traffic to surf three waves (ND being a notoriously hard work, low wave count spot)? But now there is the toll road, and my back and various bones are doing okay, I’ve been sneaking down south.
As I’ve mentioned before, I’ve never been much of an Ulu side guy (except for Airport (Pertamina) Lefts and Middles before the crowds) — and after learning to ride a surfboard at Kuta beachbreaks my first reef waves were first, Mushroom Rock when the Nusa Dua warungs were at that beach before the hotel developments, and then Nusa Dua proper. There’s a blog post about the history of Nusa Dua surfing as filtered through my warped memories. In the early 80s, Nusa Dua got pretty crowded for the time, I think mainly because the government bulldozed a limestone road out there as the first stage of development, allowing easy access in the off-season months. The other off-season spots were hard to get to (ie Green Balls, Payung) or damn near impossible (ie Serangan), so Nusa was the go to place.
At any rate, all those years surfing the joint, and not one photograph of yours truly. So when a friend alerted me that our fellow blog friend Nusa Surf Wear, who does a regular video surf report around the Bukit, had a video of me on a set wave on a good day from the other week, I said, “ah, I’m not really into self-glorification” — well, okay, I dropped everything and got on the computer and lo and behold, it was me on a solid wave. So I saved the Nusa screen grab and here it is. A historical photograph (to me at any rate; plenty of locals and visitors can surf circles around me out there). This is the end of the ride from outside and that corner came down on me and I had to bail. As I sometimes do, I counted off the seconds while tumbling around the reef bottom and popped up at nine seconds (see this post on the twelve-second rule of wave hold downs)