The other day, Lorca Lueras of Lines magazine showed me some jaw-dropping water shots of a Seminyak kid dropping drown on an Uluwatu Big Sunday wave that made him look like an ant. And the kid was on a 6’6″!
This board below is what I would have been riding (my excuse for not: still recovering from hernia operation). A classic Campbell Brothers fixed-fin thruster that Malcolm shaped for me in 1994. It’s 8’10” and 3 inches thick — these days boards are also measured by liter volume but don’t ask me what that would be except it would be voluminous. I asked Malcolm for some paddle-in beef for big Nusa Dua. I never rode this board except for small wave trials.
I didn’t need to ride it because I also had Malcolm shape me a baby-brother 8′ that worked fine for as large as I wanted to ride Nusa Dua (and other places). This is the board at Lance’s Right, taken by Paul Graham from the Indies Trader at the end of the 1994 season. Just friends on the boat for a last hurrah of the year. No other surfers around. A bit overgunned but I sure felt safe on that thing.
For personal fund raising purposes that I wish I didn’t have to do but it is for a good cause, I am selling the 8’10 for $700 firm — not only is it in great shape for somebody who wants to tackle the next 12-15 foot Ulu swell, I reckon it’s also a historical archival shape from an era before big boards were really on the scene, not to mention it’d look beautiful on a wall. Get in touch if you are interested.